If there's one tool every rockhound needs, besides a rock pick and a chisel, it's a tough military‑grade shovel.

Shovels do more than dig. Out there, you pry, lever, and smack into hardpan. Cheap hinges bend. Thin blades curl. I've broken a few on basalt and compacted gravel. You don't want those miles from the car.

You can't fake leverage. You can't cheat steel. Yet, you can choose a shovel that handles rocks, roots, and hardpack without failing.

How To Choose a Military‑Grade Shovel for Rockhounding

You might not think a shovel matters until you hit hard ground. Then it matters a lot.

Here's what I look for:

• Sturdiness & Build Quality — heat‑treated or high‑carbon steel head, reinforced handle, tight collar
• Weight & Portability — light enough to carry, strong enough to pry
• Blade Shape & Versatility — slight point for penetration, flat edge for scraping, serrations for roots
• Handle Comfort & Grip — solid aluminum/nylon/wood, textured grip, no thin hollow tubes
• Locking Mechanism (if folding) — tri‑fold with a strong locking collar, no wobble

Also, the right shovel isn't just for digging but also for prying, cutting roots, trenching, and scraping seams. It makes your rockhounding faster and safer.

👉 For rockhounding specifically: durability and leverage matter most, because you'll often be prying rocks, not just digging soft dirt.

I recommend a rugged, non‑folding or heavy‑duty military‑style shovel for max strength and leverage. But if you need to pack small, choose a well‑made folding e‑tool with a strong lock and real steel. In my hands, Gerber and sturdy tri‑folds have held up the best when I'm chasing agate, jasper, petrified wood, or thunderegg seams.

Oregon Coast Agate Hunting

Agate Varieties

Petrified Wood

Toxic & Radioactive Minerals